Sunday, November 18, 2012

Molokai: Day #2 (Part 1)

It was Wednesday and time for our trip down into Kalaupapa and Kalawao.  I decided to try the mule ride although I did have my misgivings.  Art was determined to hike the 3 mile pali trail.   There are 26 switchbacks on the trail and it has a 1,600 foot elevation.  When I spoke to the Mule Ride company, they said it would be a bit rough for an 83 year old woman.  Therefore Dennis took mom on a very small airplane down to the peninsula.

Buzzy gave us a lesson on how to ride a mule.

Did you know a mule is a cross between a horse and a donkey?  They are supposed to be sure footed.

I think I was one of the few people who had never ridden a mule or a horse.  I've ridden a donkey, but it's much smaller than a mule.

That fellow in the back with the cowboy hat is from Wyoming.  He and his ranching family were here on vacation.  I did notice that I was the only local person in this group.


Buzzy joked that they would match the mules to our faces and we had to remember their names.

My mule's name was Lahi Lahi.  Buzzy said it meant Slim.

The beginning of the trail is easier.


Art had to dodge mule urine and poop.  Eventually the trail got rockier and bumpier... very very bumpy.  I wore my bike pants, but it wasn't padded enough.  I would have preferred a pillow.


All the mules were well trained and Lahi Lahi seemed quite competent.

He had a lot of energy and soon pushed himself to the front just behind this very experienced Wyoming rancher.

The only problem with Lahi Lahi is that...
...he liked to snack!


I hated to keep pulling on the reins to nudge his head away from many of the bushes and clumps of delicious looking grass.

I'm afraid I must not have enough padding on my back side.  I seriously wished I could move my tummy fat to my backside.
Sigh....


All the mules are very well fed and cared for.  I was never afraid during the ride down the cliff.


When we got to the bottom, Art was waiting for me with another hiker who happened to be a doctor who'd studied in Chicago.  What a coincidence!

Dennis and mom had been picked up at the airport so we came together into an old school bus and our tour director, Norman took us around while giving us a history of Kalaupapa.

We told him about mom's dad, and Norman said the community house was still standing and was now a bookstore.  Norman called it a temple, but it was actually a meeting hall that grandfather had fund-raised to build.  My grandfather had also brought special food from Kaunakakai and Japanese language movies that he showed patients using a movie projector.


This is Norman and mom in front of the Americans of Japanese Ancestry Hall. Norman is Roman Catholic but was kind enough to show a lot of enthusiasm for our excitement in finding where the Buddhists were being supported.


This is just a fun, amazing coincidence.  I took this photo from the distant overlook the day before as we were looking down at the peninsula. I blew up the photo today and could see that the Tour Bus had been stopped right in front of the AJA Hall where we would be the following day.


Back on the bus, mom was all smiles.  She couldn't wait to show all the photos to her siblings in Hawaii and in Japan.

Tomorrow's post will be the second half of the day... and back on top of Lahi Lahi.

31 comments:

  1. A wonderful adventure and that last picture of mom's smile tells the whole story!

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  2. That mule ride looks so steep, very brave of you Kay. What a wonderful trip so far.

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    1. It was steep, but there were a lot of trees to stop your fall down the cliff.

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  3. pretty scary trip down I would think, I don't have much fat on my stomach, mines on my bottom so I guess I would be OK.Your Mom looks so happy, I enjoyed this post so much,

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  4. I feel for you and still remember by uncomfortable 1.5 hr horseback ride in Iceland-I thought I'd never walk again but I survived!

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    1. 3 hours of riding on a bumpy, rocky trail really does take a toll on your backside. Even my back wasn't feeling great.

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  5. Wow, you are brave, for I wouldn't go down that steep mule ride for a million! You look great on that mule's back, Kay! Your mum looks radiant and your husband is just as brave as you are! You are a happy family! Have a wonderful week, Kay!

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  6. The pics of you on the mule and your mom on the bus are so joyful and such wonderful illustrations for this adventure. I love that you make friends wherever you go, even if the new friend is a mule.

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  7. I'm getting behind on my blog reading, but this one was so interesting! I know what you mean about wishing you had a pillow... :-)

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  8. Nice you all had such a fun and informative time. I have visited Kalaupapa once, but chose to fly in. David likes to ride animals. So far, we have both ridden an elephant, but he has been brave enough to also ride a camel. Kind of difficult for me as I wear only muumuus. Lol.

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    1. Elephant, hunh? I'll bet it's a smoother ride. I really didn't much care for the camel we rode in Egypt.

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  9. I think the flying in sounds best, or maybe the hike. My back would never handle the mule ride, even with my padding! But more importantly, once again you are rediscovering your history. Your mother's smile and excitement say it all.

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    1. You know what, Linda? It was because of all that research we did on the family history for mom three years ago that all this was even more meaningful.

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  10. It would be nice if the AJA hall could be renamed to a hall in your father's name...that would fill in the missing pieces of history for the community.

    L....w

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    1. This is actually my grandfather, but I don't think he would necessarily want it named after him. He was a very modest man. He felt there were many people who were trying to help and he just did what he could.

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    2. When you mention your grandfather's modesty, you are identifying that old-time local quality. I was on a project once to get oral histories of the old-time baseball players. Hawaii had extensive leagues, sponsored by the plantations, complete with trips to other islands. But it was like pulling teeth to get anything specific out of the oldtimers. It was all, "I didn't do anything, it was the team that did it" kind of thing.

      One thing I did learn, since it did not require so-called bragging (as the old-timers saw it) was the there was no high school in Pearl City in the 20s and 30s. Pearl City was the country and the students took THE TRAIN in to Honolulu to attend McKinley High School, and they STAYED FOR THE WHOLE WEEK IN BOARDING HOUSES because it was so far.

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    3. Modesty is part of my mother's Buddhist family motto:

      Arigatai: to be thankful
      sumimasen: humility
      mottainai: not to be wasteful

      I'm not even all that sure my grandfather would like me to write about all this, but I hope that in the interest of a historical record of a difficult time in earlier Hawaii, he will allow me this pleasure.

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  11. What a busy day! Hopefully, Art's cleaning his hiker boots. Nice that the hall is still there. I'm sure you Mom's siblings will be delighted to see these photos. I was bounced off a horse in high school, so I think I'd opt for the little plane ride. DrumMajor

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    1. If I'm ever in this sort of situation again, I'm opting for the plane ride too. Almost the first thing Art did when he returned was to clean his hiking boots. I'm in the process of sorting through the photos so mom can have the album to look at.

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  12. Wow, this is almost too much to take in.

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  13. Yes, I wish the fat on the front was on the backside. I love your Mom, she is so beautiful. How wonderful she has good memories and visiting the old places cheers her up. Dianne

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    1. Thank you, Dianne. That's very kind of you.

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  14. Ask your Mom how long the flight was down to the peninsula. I took it once, and I figure it lasted for all of sixty seconds.

    As I have related here before, I think, a friend gave his wife the gift of the Molokai mule ride to Kalaupapa. She was scared to death and said unequivocally that it was the WORST GIFT she had ever received. Apparently it didn't do much for their relationship. It looks like you did fine. Do they have a weight requirement?

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    1. No, they didn't mention a weight requirement and some of the people seemed ummmm... a little on the heavier side. They do match the mule to the person.

      Mom says the flight must have been about 10 minutes. It was very quick.

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    2. Ummm.... worst gift? Wow! My butt is finally normal after four days. And I was wearing bike pants, for goodness sake! It's all the rocky bumping up and down that does the damage. However, I AM glad I did it.

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  15. I LOVE LOVE LOVE that photo of your Mom on the bus! Please, make that your header photo one day soon, pretty please? It is one of my favorites, such a delighted expression, her happiness at seeing her home island again just radiates from her face!
    I am loving your posts about Molokai, thank you!
    (And I don't know about anyone else, but I sure know what a mule is. Of course, I am a farmer's daughter!)

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  16. I too love the photo of your mom on the bus. She looks so happy!

    You are one brave woman to ride that mule.

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  17. Kay, I noticed the hall and other buildings were on stilts, so I wonder how often the area was hit by tsunamis. Is the grass in front of it gone? (The old photo seems to show grass and bushes.) In looking over the Molokai website, it mentions some storms damaging other areas. Molokai, and the litte plane, is now on my list for my next trip. Wonder what your Mom's relatives will think of the photos. Exciting to match real history with the current sites. Aloha, DrumMajor

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    1. I didn't see much vegetation by the AJA Hall. It's a bookstore now and I have a feeling they don't have enough people to plant and maintain landscape there.

      Oh... I would take that little plane too. :-)

      I'm working on a little photo album to show the relatives too.

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  18. I remember those old school buses.

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    1. So you got to ride, hunh? I had to walk to school.

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