When we first told mom about doing this trip, she wasn't excited about doing it. She felt that nothing would be the same or preserved after 75 years.
To our delight, she was able to journey back into the past and see the place that the father she admired and loved worked and did so much good.
We had a bagged lunch at Kalawao which is on the northeast side of the peninsula. Kalaupapa is on the northwest side.
The views there were absolutely beautiful. Right below was where patients were initially dropped off. Sometimes, they had to be forcibly dropped off which was very sad.
We visited Father Damien's St. Philomena Catholic church and found Brother Joseph Dutton's grave site next to it. He had asked to be buried close by Father Damien.
Our tour guide, Norman told us that only 4-5% of the population is susceptible to Hansen's Disease. Unfortunately, Father Damien was part of that small minority, and died in 1889 after 16 years at Kalaupapa. Brother Dutton was able to serve the patients for 44 years without contracting the disease. My grandfather was there for 8 years and also did not contract Hansen's Disease. Sadly, the group most susceptible were the Hawaiian people who did not have many of the immunities against diseases foreigners brought in.
Here is my grandfather crouching down next to the man he admired and regarded highly for the work he'd done for the patients for 44 years.
Mom says there was a photo of her father with Brother Dutton that was cherished by the family, but it was lost in their escape during the war.
Brother Dutton died during my grandfather's 2nd or 3rd year at Kalaupapa.
This is the grave yard next to the church. Father Damien's grave is at the front.
To our delight, she was able to journey back into the past and see the place that the father she admired and loved worked and did so much good.
We had a bagged lunch at Kalawao which is on the northeast side of the peninsula. Kalaupapa is on the northwest side.
The views there were absolutely beautiful. Right below was where patients were initially dropped off. Sometimes, they had to be forcibly dropped off which was very sad.
We visited Father Damien's St. Philomena Catholic church and found Brother Joseph Dutton's grave site next to it. He had asked to be buried close by Father Damien.
Our tour guide, Norman told us that only 4-5% of the population is susceptible to Hansen's Disease. Unfortunately, Father Damien was part of that small minority, and died in 1889 after 16 years at Kalaupapa. Brother Dutton was able to serve the patients for 44 years without contracting the disease. My grandfather was there for 8 years and also did not contract Hansen's Disease. Sadly, the group most susceptible were the Hawaiian people who did not have many of the immunities against diseases foreigners brought in.
Mom says there was a photo of her father with Brother Dutton that was cherished by the family, but it was lost in their escape during the war.
Brother Dutton died during my grandfather's 2nd or 3rd year at Kalaupapa.
This is the grave yard next to the church. Father Damien's grave is at the front.
St. Philomena Catholic Church
OK, it's not that I didn't like Lahi Lahi. However, my behind was really protesting getting back in the saddle. Lahi Lahi on the other hand could not wait to get started. He was pushing at the ropes to get to the front again... until he remembered that it was going to be UPhill this time.
I almost know the exact moment when he remembered. Suddenly his steps slowed and he had to be prodded by the mule leaders. I hated to kick him like they told me to.
I really sympathized with his plight. I REALLY don't like climbing UPhill either. Whereas he pushed to the front of the line when we were going down, he now stopped at almost every switch back.
When I tried to urge him on, he'd look back at me as if to say, "Are you kidding me? Couldn't you have lost those 6 pounds before you decided to get on my back?"
Three miles UPhill all the way and Art was still raring to go. His butt was just fine!
We read that you could mail a coconut anywhere in the U.S. for between $10.00 to $15.00 (postage) so we decided to send one to KC in Chicago.
The coconut was free.
Can you believe the gas prices on Molokai?
We also found that Molokai has the plastic bag law. If you plan to go there, bring your own bag. It was not a problem for us.
And this is where our luck ran out. Our Island Air flight was 2 hours late!!! Worse... I had to sit on hard metal seats for 3 hours while we waited. After a stop on Lanai we finally got to bed around midnight.
And yes! Here is Art's trophy t-shirt. In retrospect, Art says I should have gotten one too. We also brought back Molokai sweet potato chips and a whole lot of wonderful memories.
And mom? She's thrilled and could hardly wait to get home and start writing all about it.
what a memorable trip...you relived history and honored your grandfather.
ReplyDeletewhat a wonderful trip except your sore bottom, that was too bad, bring a pillow next time!
ReplyDeleteabsolutely insane.
ReplyDeletewhat a wonderful trip...thanks for sharing a look back into your history.
ReplyDeleteYou have made this a delightful trip for me too. Thanks for sharing your wonderful history. How happy your mother must be for being able to enjoy such a memorable journey. Condolences to Lahi Lahi for having to travel back up the hill before you could lose 6 lbs:)
ReplyDeleteWhat a great adventure! We have a plastic bag ban in Bellingham, too. I think it's the wave of the future. I enjoyed your story, Kay! :-)
ReplyDeleteWhat an interesting place to visit and, of course, your personal connection made it very special.
ReplyDeleteNo more plastic bags in Boulder, CO after next July.
I would have had them make your stirrups a notch higher. That might have helped distribute the weight better.
ReplyDelete"One's Molokai can be anywhere." Something for all of us to remember.
I wish we could read what your mother wrote.
That quote from Brother Dutton really grabbed me too. Isn't it so true and so wise? When I talked to my grandfather about religion, he said there are good and bad Buddhists and Christians. To illustrate that he said Brother Dutton was the example of a good Christian.
DeleteWonderful story! Thank you for sharing.
ReplyDeleteMary L
I so much enjoy your posts on history and your ancestors. I love the quote by Brother Joseph Dutton. I appreciate his sentiments and feel uplifted by them, but such long service under such conditions is still, in my mind, very special.
ReplyDeleteI love the pics of your mother in the bus too, and the one with your grandfather kneeling aside Brother Dutton's grave. Such wonderful photos to appreciate. I can only imagine how your mother must have felt knowing the important work her father contributed to this colony as she walked the earth where it all took place. How proud she must have felt. And growing up there as a young child of a Zen priest, a man of service, must have its special memories.
ReplyDeleteL....w
Mom was especially thrilled to see that community hall that was still standing. I wish we could have made this trip decades ago when my grandfather was still alive so that we could have shown it to him.
DeleteKay, sounds like a wonderful trip!! I love the picture of the 4 of you (your Mom is so cute!!). Sounds like it was a great trip and I think you Mom enjoyed herself.
ReplyDeleteWhat a fun trip! Between the two of us, we'll traverse the world.
ReplyDeleteWhy haven't we been there, when we live so close? Thanks for this great photo essay. What an amazing family you have. And I love your adventurous spirit.
ReplyDeleteThis was the first time for us going there too. Art is determined to try going to Lanai one of these days too.
DeleteMay need a fishing pole with some of those snacks dangling in front of Lani Lani. That creature sure knows how to issue a guilt trip! Wonder if your Grandfather had the chance to visit Lanai or Maui. I noticed the straps from the saddle over the horses' upper rumps, I presume to keep the saddle from sliding forward, beyond the usual girth straps. "Trees will stop your fall if you go over the cliff" isn't reassuring to me! Surprised Island Air was so late. They seemed to have flights every two hours. Maybe a plane needed maintenence and you were just late, instead of being on the news. Looks like a lovely day.
ReplyDeleteI keep thinking about Mom's cheery photo from the tour's school bus. So many years past, it would have been such a person placed on the bus to the internment camps. Thank goodness the world manages some changes for the good. You and your family should start up "Spunky Senior Tours!" Mahalo for sharing.
DrumMajor
My mother was no longer in Hawaii by the time the Internment happened. It would have been a difficult thing for her to bear, but perhaps not as difficult as what she actually did. It was such a harsh, awful time.
DeleteArt is already wondering where we should take mom next. :-)
A fabulous trip !
ReplyDeleteWhat a gift you gave to your mother, and to all of you, for that matter. Sore butts pass, memories linger.
ReplyDelete